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Wine
requires special care (“ad personam”)
of the grapevine, starting from the grape: each bunch, (the most
of them), is handled individually, one by one, and valued during
the short time needed to place it in the box, or plateau. And its
grade of maturation and its potentiality in the wine making process
is determined just by touching it. Once
the grapes are resting, their drying process is checked every day,
adjusting ventilation if the weather is not favourable. But it is
already known if a certain vineyard is more suitable to produce
Valpolicella classic, Recioto or Amarone; therefore special attention
can be easily planned to obtain the best results.
This
attention, that comes from tradition, the same
required by the most updated enological science,
is justified by the special place taken by wine in the people’s
culture, and perhaps in our civilisation. Wine was always surrounded
by a sacral halo, the signs of which are not limited
to the Christian cult, but are related to the popular customs and
tradition up to few decades ago: grape harvest began after the feast
of Our Lady of the Rosary, Recioto was decanted
on Good Friday, the wine for the Holy Mass was
made from grapes offered by the entire community.
Each
family kept some grape bunches, hanging from the wooden beams the
kitchen (el rosso, the red ones) to be eaten on Christmas, and some
bottle of good wine were kept for the children’s baptisms.
The
same good wine was used to confirm an agreement, a new friendship,
a marriage contract: when a father was going together with his son
to ask officially for the hand of the girl he loved (morosa), the
assent of the girl’s father was endorsed by the invitation
to sit at the table and drink a bottle di quello buono (“of
the good one”).
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